Cutting a housing
Cut housings (slots across the grain) with the wood securely cramped down so that it will not move as you work, and you have two hands free to use the chisel. Guide the blade with one hand and push with the other. Work with the blade bevel upward.
1. Mark out the width on the top and the width and depth on both sides of the wood.
2. Saw down just inside. The vertical fitters, as fat as the depth lines.
3. Chisel out waste a little at a time from both. Sides, cutting upward.
4. Pare away the central waste until you reach the bottom,
6. Shave the bottom so that it is smooth. Check for flatness with a rule
6. On wider housings, make extra saw-cuts in the waste to facilitate chiselling
Cutting a mortise
Use a beech mallet to hit the chisel for. Use a chisel the exact width of the planned mortise, which should be not more than one-third of the wood’s thickness. The chisel’s sides must always be at right angles to the surface of the wood.
1. Drive the chisel into the centre of the mortise, loosening a wedge of waste.
2. Chop back to within 3 mm (1/8 in) of the line marking the end,
3. Chop out in the opposite direction from the first cut.
4. Remove waste and continue chopping to the required depth. Cut a through mortise from both sides of the wood
5. Remove the last 3 mm of waste from each end of the mortise.
6. As an alternative, drill out the waste and clean up with a chisel.
How to pare
Keep your head over the work, and the chisel upright. Work on a smooth surface — not directly on the bench top. Hold the chisel with the right hand at the top, the thumb giving downward thrust.
1. To pare a curve, first cut off one corner at about 45°.
2. Cut the other corner.
3. Pare oft the corners left by the first cuts.
4. Continue cutting off corners keeping the chisel upright.
5. Work in as close to the line of the curve as possible.
6. Finish off the curve by smoothing with a file