DIY How to Apply Paint
How to Apply Paint:
In addition to dusting the work before applying a coat of paint, the duster should be used before each section of work is coated. The paint-brush should be a sensible size in relation to the size of the work. It is bad practice to use a brush that is either too small or too large for the job in hand. In most cases for interior painting the handyman will use more than one brush at a time. A 1-in. brush for edges and small surfaces with a 1-1/2 in. or 2-in. brush for large surfaces, such as skirting-boards or door panels. For fine work — the edges of sash mouldings, etc. — a lining brush, should be used. When changing over from one brush to another, the brush previously used should be wiped on the side of the can to unload as much paint as possible. The secret of success in amateur decorating is to get the paint in the brush and not on it. The bristles should be dipped into the paint for about a third of their length and the loaded brush should then be worked against the inside surface of the tin or paint-kettle, not scraped on the rim of the container. In addition to correctly loading the brush, this method will prevent a great deal of spots and splashes, and messy smears due to paint running down the outside of the container.
All kinds of paint should be worked as quickly as possible, and to obtain the best results paint should be evenly flowed on the surface. It is bad practice to apply paint too thickly, for not only will this lead to runs and tears but it will thicken the fine edges of mouldings and corners. The correct amount of paint to cover any given surface should be sufficient just to cover the previous application, without leaving any bare patches. Commence from a corner and work towards the other end of the piece, laying off the paint in the direction of the unfinished part of the section of the work being treated. ‘Laying off’ simply means the final movements of the brush, which should always be in smooth strokes from the first corner and running the longest way of the work. The next section treated should be laid off in the direction of the first section. During the work of applying the paint keep a piece of rag dampened with turpentine or paraffin handy and use this to wipe up any spots or smears as soon as they are noticed. It is bad practice to leave splashes until the job has been finished;should always be done as the work progresses. After a little practice you should make very few splashes.
Brush control is largely a matter of practice. If however, the instructions given here are carefully followed, the most inexperienced person should have no difficulty in applying paint. One important habit to develop which will considerably reduce splashings is to work the brush with a clean sweeping movement of the wrist, rather than with a movement of the elbow and at the end of each brush-stroke the brush should be turned so that the bristles do not leave the surface of the work. Runs and tears can be avoided by slightly underloading the brush when coating corners and edges, particularly corners of mouldings. The bristles should be well tucked into corners and laying off should be done away from corners.
One of the most frequent signs of amateurish work is what is known professionally as a ‘fat edge’. This occurs on projecting corners of the work and it is due to wiping paint on the surface previously painted when the adjoining surface is coated. Whenever laying off a surface with a projecting corner the brush should always be run on the edge of the adjoining surface to remove any surplus paint at this point. If the finishing coat of paint appears to be thick and is difficult to apply, the paint should be warmed. This thickening of finishing paints, particularly enamels, occurs in cold weather. Improved fluidity is obtained by standing the can or tin of paint in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes.
The sequence of painting a window is roughly the same as the general work of painting. The job should be done as far as possible so that any surplus paint does not drop on to surfaces previously painted. Windows are best done by painting the sash-frame first, completing each bar or stile before the next one is coated. Do the fine work of cutting in and painting the mouldings before painting flat surfaces. Leave architraves and the framework of the window until the sashes have been coated and leave the sill until last of all. Incidentally don’t forget to paint the underside of the sill.
When painting doors and windows the inside bars and stiles should first be coated so that when laying off the remaining parts it does not interfere with the parts already coated. The top rail of a sash frame should be coated before painting the stile at the side. This is because the stile overlaps the end of the rail and if the rail is painted first the stile may be coated and laid off without interfering with the paint previously brushed on to the rail.
If the door is a flush one, the painting should be commenced at the top of the door and worked down to the lower edge. The door is coated before the architrave and door-frame If the door is a panelled one, the sequence of painting should be carried out as shown right. The panel mouldings are first to be coated with paint. A 1-in. brush should be sufficient for this part of the job and care should be taken not to lay thicknesses of paint too heavily on surrounding surfaces as, with some kinds of paint, this extra thickness may dry or set off before the rest of the job is done, with the result that the brush will drag in the semi-hard paint.
After painting theof the top left-hand panel, the panel itself should be coated, starting at the top of the panel and working down. The laying off should always be done from the short ends of the panel, lifting the brush at the middle. Continue with the top right panel, follow with the lower left panel, then the bottom right panel before painting the rest of the door. The remaining surfaces are painted as follows: Commence with the uppermost inside stile between the top panels, continue with the lower middle stile between the two bottom panels. Carry on with the top cross rail, then continue with the middle rail across the door and the lower rails before painting the two upright stiles at the edges.
The edge of the door should be painted next and this is the part of the work where care should be taken to avoid the formation of a fat edge as described above. After the door has been completed, the architrave and framework should then be coated. If the door opens inwards the cleaning up of spots and splashes should include wiping the meeting edges of the hinge side of the door with a turpsy rag to remove any paint that has seeped through the edge of the door. Other unpainted surfaces of the door should also be inspected and any smears wiped off with a rag. The door should then be wedged open so that it cannot slam against the wet paint on the inside edges of the stops.