Enamelled cast-iron baths are still the most widely used, with enamelled pressed-steel baths, next in popularity. The latter are much lighter and, consequently, easier to transport and fit. Cast-iron has, however, far greater heat-retention properties.
Acrylic-plastic baths, while gaining in popularity, have the rather unfair reputation that they easily scratch and mark. Scratches can be fairly easily removed with fine wire wool, and finished off with metal polish. Do not, however, use abrasives as a cleaning medium.
Plastic and steel baths are generally fitted with a cradle support, though some plastic baths, with ribbed supports, do not require cradling.
Modern baths possess levelling devices to enable the bath to ‘sit’ correctly on the floor. Old baths may need wedges under the feet if the floor is uneven.
Taps, waste outlets and overflows are fitted similarly to wash handbasins. Mixer taps have separate stems for hot and cold inlets; the actual mixing is done in the body of the tap.
With both pressed steel and plastic baths, because of their thin structure, spacing pieces between the tap and the underside of the bath are needed to accommodate the square shoulders or lugs under the tap body. These help the tap to lock into the correct position.
Combination wastes and overflows, now widely used, generally have a flexible hose between overflow and the slotted waste outlet. These are simply fixed, using jointing compound and plastic washers.
Once the bath is installed check, with a spirit level, that it is level. This automatically provides the correct fall for draining the bath, since the floor of a bath slopes.
The rim should be kept as close as possible to the wall, so that edge sealing. With trim or with mastic, can finally be carried out.
10. November 2011 by admin
Categories: Featured, Handyman Tips | Tags: Carpet, carpets, decorating, DIY, do it yourself, flooring, handyman tips, home repairs, plumbing, repair | Comments Off on Fitting Baths