Fitting Rebated Cupboard Doors
An alternative method of fitting cupboard doors is to rebate the edges of them so that the doors fit over the edges of the framework.
Doors made this way are lighter in appearance than the framed doors described in Hanging a Cupboard Door, and the finish is more modern. This edge finish is very suitable for doors of cupboards and cabinets in bathrooms and kitchens. The doors are made in exactly the same way as described in Hanging a Cupboard Door by first making a framework of 2-in. by 1-in. , with the corners half-jointed, and covering the frames with or . The framework, of course, is made larger than the aperture and a reasonable extra amount to allow for the width of the rebate is 1- in. on each side. This means that the frame must be 2 in. larger each way than the aperture.
These rebated doors are hung with ‘cupboard-door’ hinges, which are cranked, as illustrated in fig. 72. The hinges are fitted by screwing them to the face side of the door and the front of the cupboard. The edges of the frame should be rebated before the parts are assembled and the rebating should be done to leave the thickness of the hinge across the cranked knuckle, as illustrated in fig. 72 — this thickness must include the thickness of the covering of hardboard. The rebates may be cut in several ways.
The simplest method of cutting rebates of this sort is to use a cutting gauge. This tool is illustrated in fig. 72. It is similar in appearance to a marking gauge and has the same working action, but instead of a marking needle, the cutting gauge is fitted with a small blade which is held in position with a metal wedge (see fig. 72). Obviously the blade must be kept well-sharpened, if the tool is to work properly.
Sharpening is done by removing the wedge to release the blade, the edge of which is then rubbed on an oilstone. To use the cutting gauge the stop should be adjusted to the width of the rebate from the blade to the face of the gauge stop. The tool is then drawn along the edge of the wood with the face of the stop firmly pressed against the edge of the piece. The gauge should not be used to cut the depth of the rebate in one go, and this should be done progressively by making several movements of the tool, each movement cutting a little deeper into the wood.
The length of the cutting blade from the bar of the gauge may be adjusted by releasing and tightening the metal wedge. The tool must be held upright while it is being used — gauges of all kinds should be drawn along the work and not pushed into the timber. With one side of the rebate cut, the gauge should be re-adjusted to make the other cut at right angles to the first one. This consists of loosening and adjusting the stop, also the depth of the blade. The tool is then used as before, making shallow strokes and gradually increasing the pressure on each stroke until the waste piece of wood is cut cleanly away. The inside of the rebate is then finished by rubbing down with glass-paper folded over the corner edge of a small piece of wood.
Alternatively rebates may be cut on a small circular bench saw of the type powered with an electric drill. The depth of the cut is regulated by adjusting the depth of the saw-table on the saw. The width of the rebate is determined by adjusting the fence fitted to the saw-table. This method of cutting rebates is very speedy. With the waste removed the rebate should be finished by rubbing down with glass-paper as explained above.
A third method of cutting rebates is to use a rebating plane. This tool is illustrated in fig. 72. It will be seen from the illustration that the plane is fitted with an adjustable fence on the sole of the plane with a second adjustable fence fitted on the side of the plane; the fences are moved to regulate the depth and width of the cut. In use the plane must be held squarely and upright to produce a clean rebate. With the rebate cut the cupboard door is finished by half-jointing the frame, assembling it and covering both sides with hardboard. The corners of front edges will be improved by gently rounding them with a smoothing-plane or a wood rasp following with grade middle-two glass-paper.
If a pair of doors of this type are to be hung in a cupboard, a centre upright stile will be required to provide a stop for the closing edges of the doors.