Garden Decking Ideas – Angled Deck with Access Panels
Angled Deck with Access Panels
This deck is still an easy one to build but has a few more issues that need to be addressed before the work can be started. The position of the deck coincides with a manhole cover, two drains and a drainpipe. Fortunately, these elements are all easy to work into the finished deck and the design is such that they are still readily accessible.
The site here would have required a vast amount of work to create a new patio. The old concrete patio would have to be broken up and removed, and a new base and surface laid, so it was an easy decision to build a deck instead. As the old patio sloped towards the house, the deck would have to be raised at the house end to level the area off and encourage the water to drain away from the house.
The deck’s primary use is to cover the old patio, but also to serve as a breakfast deck for two chairs and a small table. As people will be walking out of the door, the grooves need to run across the deck to give extra grip and prevent potential accidents. The only other consideration here is the position of any manhole covers and drains — each must be easy to get to without taking the whole deck apart.
The other difference to the basic deck is that the corner is cut off — a 90° corner does not allow a simple step and stepping off the corner could cause it to splinter. The angled corner draws you to use it as the access onto and off the deck and allows a wide, safe step area. With the basic design drawn out the building can start. Again the full length of board is to be used to cut down on materials and wastage.
1. Screw the outside frame together. For the 45° corner, cut one of the timbers at 45° and the other at 90° and thenthe two timbers together
2. If obstacles such as drains are in the way, a box will have to be built around them, not only to protect the grids but also to provide support for the deck boards.
3. Add the rest of the timbers. If access is required to large drainpipes, the cut-out needed may be the width of the board so additional framework is not required.
4. With-all the full length joists installed, thecan then be fixed between them. These will stop the deck expanding and warping the joists.
5. Access to drain covers is essential so joists should not be placed over them, but as close to them as possible. Where a normal timber will not fit around the drain, insert an extra noggin to hold the weight of the boards. Make sure all fixings near drain covers are screwed so they can be easily removed if necessary.
6. As this deck over runs on to the lawn, a weed-blocking material is needed to stop the grass growing under the deck. Use largeto fix it in place. If you want, you can also use washers to stop the nails going right through the fabric.
7. Start laying the deck boards from the back and work to the front of the deck. If the board has to be cut around an object such as a drainpipe, use a level to line up the separate lengths.
8. Use a hole saw to make a neat hole for the drainpipe to pass through the. It may be necessary to use extra pipe fittings to get the pipe to go through vertically — this saves trying to drill a hole at an angle to suit the pipe. Using the level as a straight edge, align the join in the small access panel with the centre of a beam and in the deck boards on both sides of the join. Cutting all the odd lengths from one piece of timber ensures that the wood colour and grain match.
9. As you reach the manhole cover you will need to cut each board so that the lengths butt-up together in the middle of each supporting timber and so will allow easy access to the drain. Space and fix each one down at the ends and, with a level, match up the board to cover the total length of the deck.
10. Overhang the boards with the largest overhangs at one end as this will give you offcuts of a useful length. Fix with twoat each end and two per joist to stop any cupping. Space evenly as before and fix in the middle of the boards.
11. Screw or clamp a straight edge to the deck and run along with a trim saw to create a uniform overhang. Alternatively, if an edge is to be added, trim level with the joist.