Greenhouses and garden frames should be repainted as soon as any deterioration of the existing paint surface is noticed. Special consideration should be given when inspecting greenhouses, etc., to the putty, and any decayed putty should be removed and replaced by new putty as soon as deterioration is noticed. Cracked glass may be repaired by sealing the joint with putty, but the best treatment is to remove damaged glass and replace it with new pieces. Outside edge drainage to greenhouses and permanently sited cold frames may be afforded in the same way as for garden sheds, described above.
Any weeping knots should be given thorough attention; this consists of removing the old paint over the knot and from an area extending several inches around it, by softening the paint with a blow-lamp or a paint solvent, and scraping the wood bare. If a solvent is used, this should be thoroughly neutralized before coating the knots with knotting-quality shellac. The shellac should cover the knot and the timber around the knot. After the shellac dries — it takes only a few minutes to dry — the bare wood should be primed with pink priming paint, or aluminium priming paint, and the priming coat should be followed by two applications of outdoor quality undercoating before finishing the job with a coat of white gloss paint.
It is sometimes found that a piece of painted wood in a greenhouse has a high resin-content, which causes continual weeping, blistering and flaking of the paint, thus exposing the wood to adverse weather conditions. The repair treatment consists of baring the wood, using a paint solvent or blow-lamp. The affected timber is then coated with an oil-bound distemper which when dry is followed by two coats of undercoating, followed by a finishing coat. This simple remedy will be found a complete cure for resinous outside timbers.