How to Fit Pelmets and Make Box Pelmets

The addition of a pelmet makes an attractive finish to a window. These fittings simply consist of a shelf-like pelmet board, which is fitted to the top edge of the window-frame, and the front covered with buckram, or any other stiff fabric — or they may be box pelmets with solid fronts and sides. The construction of some simple pelmets and shapes for box pelmets is illustrated below. The pelmet board, which is the main part of both types of pelmets, can be made from softwood provided it is well seasoned and reasonably free from knots. A suitable width for a pelmet board is 4-1/2 in. to 5 in., allowing 1 in. which is taken up by the fitting to the top edge of the window-frame which the hoard overlaps.

The length of the board should be the width of the frame plus 1 in. for overhanging at each end. Shelf-type pelmet boards that are faced with fabric may have square or rounded corners. These boards are secured in place with 1-1/2-in. oval nails which are driven through the top of the board into the edge of the architrave, at the top of the window. Further support is given by attaching a small shelf-bracket to each end of the pelmet board and the sides of the architrave, (see image below). Three-inch shelf-brackets are suitable for this job and these should be of the type shown in the illustration. The shelf-brackets are secured with round-head screws and for most window-frames a screw length of in. should be sufficient. The board and brackets may be painted the same colour as the woodwork.

making pelmetsBox pelmets may be faced with 4-mm plywood or thick hardboard.

The edge shape is marked on the face of the front with pencil and, depending on the shape, the waste is trimmed with a scroll-saw or a padsaw. A scroll-saw  is illustrated right. A scroll-saw consists of a metal frame fitted with a handle, the blade is removable and may be exchanged for a new one — when it becomes worn or snaps as it sometimes does, however carefully the saw is used. The blade should be fitted with the teeth pointing away from the handle. The handle is threaded to the frame of the saw, and tension is put on the blade by turning the handle and tightening a screwed socket attached to the end of the blade. The angle of the blade to the saw frame may be adjusted by releasing the tension, turning the blade to the required angle and tightening the handle. This saw will be found extremely useful for cutting small curved shapes in thin materials.

If the box pelmet has curved corners at the front, the grain of the plywood — if plywood is used — should run across the width of the wood. Plywood may be shaped round a curved corner by nailing it to the edge of the pelmet board using 1/2 in or panel pins. The nails should be taken up to the curve and the plywood is then held in the steam of a boiling kettle to make it pliable. After holding the wood in the steam for a few minutes, nailing can be continued round the curve. If the box pelmet has squared corners, the ends of the box should be of the same material used for the pelmet board. The ends may also be shaped as illustrated above and they are fitted to the board to lap the corners of the top of the window-frame as shown above. If there is no window-frame, as in the case of windows with plastered reveals — a reveal is simply a surface that turns at right angles to the main wall — the pelmet board should be attached over the window aperture with small shelf-brackets, which should be secured to plugs inserted in the wall.

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21. July 2011 by admin
Categories: Interior Design, Window Dressing | Tags: | Comments Off on How to Fit Pelmets and Make Box Pelmets

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