How to Use a Power Drill
Ashould be operated with a steady, firm pressure. Excess pressure should never be applied to the work and the motor should not be under strain; it may seize up or burn out. Some motors have devices to declutch or lock out the motor when it is overstressed.
Before changing speed, make sure that the motor of the drill is stationary. Damage or wear may be caused to the gearing mechanism if you change speeds while the motor is running.
To fit attachments to some drills, the chuck has to be removed with a special spanner, supplied with the power tool. To remove the chuck, lock the spanner on the nut behind the chuck, and give the chuck a firm twist to the right. If it is tight, insert the chuck key and give this a sharp tap on the cross-bar end with a hammer.
The most common use for the power drill is to make holes. These can be made in almost any surface, provided the correct bit is used at the right speed.
When drilling in any surface, occasionally withdraw the bit from the hole to remove dust and debris which cause overheating. Masonry drills are prone to overheat, so allow the bit time to cool.
Most wood drilling can be carried out with’ bits similar to those used in hand drills. The only difference is that the power bit has a rounded shank.
Large holes are easier to drill if these are preceded by a small pilot hole which should be drilled very accurately.
For small drill bits (less than 5mm), use high speed; use a slow speed with larger bits if you are drilling metal. Always reduce pressure as the bit is about to break through.
If two pieces of wood are to be screwed together three drilling operations are needed:
a pilot hole for thethreads to bite into;
a clearance hole for the unthreadedshank;
a countersink for the screw head.
Special combination drill bits are made for drilling these three holes in one operation and are supplied with an adjustable depth stop which regulates the amount by which the head of the screw is set below the surface of the work. These combination bits are related to screw sizes.
Another bit which is available for drills is the plug cutter which produces small round plugs from the material you are using. These fit back exactly into the countersink holes to conceal the screw heads.
After use, rub down bits with steel wool and wipe with a thin oil. Any waste wood compacted into the grooves will cause the bits to clog, overheat or lose temper.
When drilling metals other than brass or cast iron, lubricate the drill bit. For steel, use a thin oil, for aluminium turpentine or paraffin, turpentine for glass and water for mirrors. The technique for drilling glass is described in the article on cutting glass.
Always mark the hole accurately and draw a cross to show the centre. To stop the drill point from slipping, either tap gently on glazed and smooth surfaces with a centre punch, just marking the glaze, to give a purchase point; or fix a piece of sticky tape on the surface and mark on it the drilling position.
Thin metal should be clamped to a piece of wood as this will reduce distortion and avoid jamming as the drill breaks through.
When drilling always carry the cable over the shoulder or clamp it in the hand. It can be dangerous if caught up in a powerful motor.
Always clamp workpieces firmly to stop them from revolving-a piece ofmetal could be very dangerous. The drill must be at right angles to the working surface. You can use an upturned try square to check vertical alignment. However, a bench stand or a drill guide are more accurate means of ensuring accuracy.
The drill stand has many advantages, since it is adjustable for both height and radial swing. A variety of drills can be simply and quickly clamped into the stand.
10. November 2011 by admin
Categories: Featured, Handyman Tips | Tags: Carpet, carpets, decorating, DIY, do it yourself, flooring, handyman tips, home repairs, plumbing, repair | Comments Off on How to Use a Power Drill