Repairs to Garages and Garage Doors


Bottom edge drainage for the sides of garages may be afforded in the same way as for garden sheds, and in most cases it will be found advisable to fit a gutter to a garage roof. This may be of zinc or light gutterings of most materials are obtainable from local builders’ merchants. Alternatively a simple form of guttering may be made from 3-in. by 1-in. timber, fitted to a V shape. The guttering should run towards a suitable point of drainage, and this is best provided by a small water tub, which will preserve the soft rain-water for use in the garden.

Small holes in the roof or sides of garages covered with galvanized iron may be filled with cold solder or metal cement. The hole and the surrounding surface should be scraped clean and bright, the solder is then forced through the hole and shaped both inside and outside. After drying, the solder and the surrounding surface should be coated with a metal priming paint.

The run or slope of a garage floor should be towards the doors, and if the level slopes the wrong way, so that water is carried into the garage, it will be necessary to resurface the floor with concrete.


The hinges of the garage doors, locks and bolts should be oiled at regular intervals and if any of the stiles or bars have opened where they join, repair should be carried out immediately this condition is noticed. The frames of most garage doors are secured with mortise and tenon joins, which are pinned with dowels. Any failure of this type of join necessitates removing the dowels and replacing them with new ones of slightly greater thickness. The door should be opened and wedged so that the weight is lifted from the joint and the old dowel pins are loosened and removed by driving them out with a nail-punch, using the head of the punch instead of the pointed end. The cracks between the two members should be coated with synthetic resin glue, as also should the new dowels, which should be driven home firmly, and the ends of the joints cut flush with the surfaces of the doors. If the joint is not of the dowel-pinned mortise and tenon type, it may be a wedge tenon and the loosening of the joint is due, in all probability, to the shrinking of the wedges. The door should be wedged open to slacken the weight off the damaged joint. Any visible parts of the tenon should be coated with glue and the old wedges removed by hooking them out with the pointed end of a thin-bladed chisel.

With this done, the wedge under the door should be tightened to close the joint, which should be pinned with dowels. With the dowel pins driven firmly home, new wedges should be made and driven into the edge of the joint.

Garage doors are heavy things which may, after a period of time, sag and drag the bottom edge on the floor or apron of the garage. The sag may be taken up in the case of loosened butt hinges, by replacing the screws in the hinge one at a time with new screws of the same gauge, but 1/4 in. to 1/2 in. longer than the old ones. Alternatively, the butt hinges may be removed and replaced with rising butts, which raise the door off the floor as it is opened.

If the hinges are of the flap, or cross-garnet type, the dragging door may be eased by removing the top hinges and replacing them slightly above the old positions with the flap of the hinge a little further over on the frame, away from the door. It may be necessary, in very bad cases, to ease a few shavings from the top of the door where it meets the frame.


Garage doors that have weakened, and do not respond to any of the above treatments, should be fitted with an extra brace on the back of the door. The brace runs diagonally across the door and the lower end of the brace is always at the hinge side. A suitable material for braces is 3-in. by 1-½-in. softwood, which should be secured firmly to the garage door with 3-in. screws, driven through from inside. The brace should be attached with the garage door open and a wedge should be driven under the bottom edge of the door, to tighten any looseness in the frame, before attaching the brace. If none of these remedies completely eliminates drag, a very thin piece may be sawn from the bottom of the door.

20. July 2011 by admin
Categories: External Repairs, Outbuildings | Tags: , | Comments Off on Repairs to Garages and Garage Doors


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