Wallpapering Awkward Corners and Fittings
Butt joints should be used when hanging paper. The two edges should meet exactly. This is done by brushing the side of the piece of paper being hung into line with the last piece of paper. When the paper has been hung for ten minutes gently roll the seams with a boxwood roller.
Small or awkwardly shaped pieces of paper, needed for filling in odd widths, can be measured and cut on the flat surface of the paste table.
There are two types of corners to be papered:
• A projecting corner and;
• An inner corner.
Corners are not difficult to paper but do not attempt to hang a whole width round or into the corner. Irregular walls will almost certainly give an unsightly result.
Measure the distance between the last full length hung and the corner, adding 25mm to this measurement. Cut off the paper, making sure that the edge is cut straight. Hang the wider part of the length first, trim top and bottom and then position the overlap trim and brush out. This overlap will butt joint to the remainder of the length, which is hung next.
Inner corners can be treated in two ways. One is to offer the paper to the corner, and mark the position of the corner crease with the back of the shears. Cut the paper along this line; paste the two sections and draw together to make a butt joint.
In the second method, measure the distance between the last complete length and the corner, adding a 25mm overlap. Mark the next length to be hung. Cut off the excess and hang the first piece of paper so that the overlap turns the corner; trim top and bottom. Hang the remainder of the length to match the pattern and to be perpendicular.
In all cases, the paper should be pasted before cutting to fit round or in to corners. The only exception is when using pre-pasted papers. These should be cut before the paste is activated.
A neat fit round a door is achieved in the following way. The last full width is pasted and hung, then trimmed roughly, leaving a 25mm overlap at the top and frame side edge.
Make a diagonal cut, about 6mm long, in the paper, at the top corner of the door frame. Use the smoothing brush to press the paper into the angle between the wall and the door frame. Score along the top and bottom of the length with the shears and the top and bottom of the frame.
Peel back the paper carefully, cut off excess, then press it back. On a wide opening it will be necessary to match in a short length of paper over the centre of the door.
When papering round an obstacle, such as a window, a long narrow gap is often left. Measure the length and breadth of this strip, taking the measurement of the gap from the last complete width hung to the window frame.
Place the paper, pattern uppermost, on the table and cut off a strip of the required size, adding 50mm to the length, to allow for pattern matching.
Paste the paper and butt joint it to the last piece of hung paper. Excess paper at the trim should be cut off and the paper pushed into place. To camouflage the joins at top and bottom, tear off the excess paper to give a feathered edge and gently brush the paper in.
Before papering round any light fitting, such as a switch, it is wise to turn off theat the mains.
Light switches may be either flush or projecting. Unless the fitting cover is removed, paper over a flush switch. Use scissors to make a hole in the centre of the switch position and cut diagonal lines beyond each corner. Crease the paper, on all four sides, with the back of the shears, and trim off the excess. Press the paper into position.
With a projecting light switch, hang the paper over the switch; this will cause a bulge in the paper, marking the outline of the switch. Next, peel back the paper, making a small hole in the centre of the switch area.
Cut vertically and diagonally; make each cut about twice the length and radius of the fitting. Replace the paper, and crease round the fitting, peel the petal-like strips back gently again, and cut round these marks. Finally, press the paper back into position round the fitting.
10. November 2011 by admin
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